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Coiffeurs and khat offer welcome escape in Madagascar

Life is a struggle for many in Madagascar, and streetside coiffeurs offer an escape, a place to chat and relax.

Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
Electronics shops in Madagascar attract customers seeking a break by blasting music. Their customers often carry khat. Khat production has surged on the island as commodity prices have gone down, and the drug can be easily found in Malagasy towns. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
By Peter Lykke Lind
Published On 24 Oct 201624 Oct 2016
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Madagascar Island – Come noon on Saturdays in Madagascar, men flock to small shacks called coiffeurs – the local barbershops – found in every town on the island. This is where the music flows, where men gather to start off the weekend, where people hang out in the window frames of the shops, leaning on the ledges.

The shops are filled to the brim, with most people chewing khat – leaves from the Catha edulis plant – which provide a short high when chewed. 

The coiffeurs are filled, not just because the Malagasy men like to stay groomed, but also because the barbershop is where they go to unwind, relax, forget about the troubles of everyday Malagasy life.

Madagascar is the world’s fourth largest island and one of the poorest nations in the world. The majority of Madagascar’s nearly 25 million inhabitants live in extreme poverty. 

The Saturday ritual is important to the Malagasy people, and they welcome the few hours of relief.

The country offers little luxury and, for many, life is a struggle. Every town and city in Madagascar has one bustling street where the coiffeurs offer an escape, a place to chat and relax, a room of “no worries”, as one person says.

READ MORE: The endangered lifeline of Madagascar’s sharks

Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
The coiffeurs function as a second home for many young Malagasy men on Saturdays. The owners keep them neat and clean. Elly is cleaning his shop with his mouth full of khat. Chewing khat often causes redness in the eyes. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
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Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
In Madagascar, customers don't call to book appointments. They call to check that the coiffeur is open. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
While barber Elly cleans the shop, people seek shade under the shop awning from the scorching afternoon sun. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
Grown men are not the only visitors taking a break at the shop from the bustling Malagasy life on Saturdays. This boy gets a haircut while his mother waits outside. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
'Come on in, there is enough space for everyone who wants to relax,' Hery says on a warm Saturday afternoon in Sambava town in northeastern Madagascar. The coiffeurs provide more than haircuts and beard grooming. This is where people go to chew khat before heading out on the town on Saturday nights. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
All coiffeurs have regular customers. Some coiffeurs are for a younger crowd, such as Coiffeur Mahafaly, where reggae-inspired music can be heard coming from the shop windows - an early start to a Saturday night out. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
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Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
The time spent in the chair is time spent with the barber, sharing everything, including khat. 'Come on in, of course, all are welcome in here,' one of the barbers says. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
The coiffeur is deliberately kept dark - the stories told inside are not fit for being shared outside, a customer says. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
Tony both entertains the waiting customers and lounging regulars, and gives perfect haircuts. 'No problem,' he says. Each haircut takes him about 20 minutes. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
Off the main street, the coiffeurs for women offer a different kind of salon. While the social aspect remains, khat is less common in the women's shops. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]
Coiffeurs and Khat/ Please Do Not Use
Nirina is closing up shop after a busy day. The women tend to attend the coiffeurs earlier in the day. [Peter Lykke Lind/Al Jazeera]


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